Gen X Global Stealth Paintball/Airsoft Mask Review

The Gen X Global Stealth mask is great for both paintball and airsoft, giving your face protection from BBs and paintballs. It’s made mostly from durable, flexible plastic with the exception of foam around the inside of the lenses and the adjustable strap in the back.

The Gen X Global Stealth mask has a great fit. As mentioned before, there’s a adjustable strap on the back of the mask that you can easily pull tighter or looser. And the plastic that the mask is made of is flexible; this doesn’t only cushion the shock from BBs and paintballs, but it also flexes to the contours of your head, making for a nice and snug fit. There’s also a small line of foam padding outlining the inside of the lenses, boosting the comfort level tremendously. The foam also doesn’t scratch against your skin like other masks with inner foam lining, which can be extremely uncomfortable, especially so when you start to sweat.

As you can see in the picture above, the Stealth mask also has plenty of little slots for air to get through. This is a big up-side for airsoft/paintball skirmishes when you’re constantly on the move and needing to suck down a lot of air.

The visor that comes with the Stealth mask is removable. This is great for transitioning between sunny outdoor shooting and indoor or CQB where you have to be as low-profile as possible. However, it is a little tricky to get on and off. There’s two little rods (one on either side) of the visor that you must fit into two holes on either side of the mask. There’s also four little hook-type parts that you have to align into vents in the top of the mask. To snap the mask back on you must align all four hooks and both rods into their places which is easier said than done.

A huge down-side is that it’s almost impossible to shoot rifles with the mask on. The problem is that that mask interferes with aiming down the sight, basically forcing you to either hip-fire or hold the rifle way out in front of you with the butt on your chest while trying to line up the sights. Although, you’re going to have this problem with just about any mask and you can still use pistols effectively. This problem also only applies to airsoft rifles, since you don’t have to use the traditional aiming method with paintball guns.

Another down-side is that the mask doesn’t cover your entire head. With the exception of your ears, the side and back of your head are still completely exposed. However, you’re still going to have this issue with any other mask because the only thing that covers your entire head are helmets, which can often cost upwards of $100.

The durability of the Stealth mask is exceptional. Even when shot from ten feet away with a 325FPS airsoft pistol it doesn’t chip or break, even if shot in the lens and slots. And even if a BB or paintball managed to chip or crack the lens, it’s easily replaceable. The lens can come on and off by pressing a couple points.

Fogging doesn’t seem to be a major issue with the Gen X Global Stealth mask. From time to time you may have a little bit of fogging up, mostly if it’s cold out, but for the most part the lens stays clear.

In a wrap, for the 10-$20 the Gen X Global Stealth runs, it’s a solid mask. I wouldn’t recommend this to airsoft players, just because the major issue of not being able to look down the sights on rifles, but if you’re planning to use it for paintball or if you’re going to use a pistol you should be fine.

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UTG Blister Airsoft Speedloader Review

Airsoft speedloaders reduce reloading time by pushing multiple BBs into the magazine with a single press of a button.

Operating the UTG Blister speedloader is pretty simple: First you fill the speedloader up with BBs. You then place the small cylinder shaped piece, located at the bottom of the speedloader, into where you’d normally insert the BBs into your airsoft rifle magazine. From there, you press a circular button, located near the top of the speedloader, which releases the long plastic piece that you can see coming out of the top of the loader in the picture above. Finally, you simply push the long arm piece downwards, and it will push BBs into the magazine.

The Blister speedloader holds about 115 BBs and ejects 4 BBs with every push of the arm. It actually does reduce reloading time quite substantially, oppose to manually reloading one BB at a time by hand.

It’s made entirely of plastic, but can withstand drops on soft surfaces.

The Blister speedloader comes with pistol magazine adapter. It’s just a small plastic piece that snaps onto the end of the speedloader and helps the speedloader stay flush against bulky spring pistol magazines while you pump BBs into it.

In a wrap, the UTG Blister speedloader is a vital piece of equipment for the 3-$5 it costs, especially if you play actual airsoft skirmishes. It cuts down loading time and keeps you in the game.

How to Make a Airsoft Masterkey

Masterkeys are basically miniature shotguns that can be attached onto tactical rails on a rifle. They’re great for CQB (Close Quarter Battle) because they have a wide spray radius and can take down multiple targets at a time. However, airsoft masterkeys are expensive and usually require Green-Gas to operate. In this post you’ll learn how to make a effective airsoft masterkey that operates without gas that’s made from inexpensive, household items.

This is what you’ll need:

  • An airsoft rifle that has tactical rails, preferably with holes lining the hand-guard. For example, the Crosman Stinger R34 is a perfect gun to use.
  • A toilet paper roll
  • Spray paint (I’d recommend using a standard color [black, OD green, etc.] for tactical reasons, but you can use a more creative color if you want to be unique)
  • Bright orange duct-tape
  • A sturdy balloon (try to keep it the same color as the spray paint you’re using)
  • A flat piece of wood, about as long and a little bit skinnier than the toilet paper roll (the wood from a mousetrap is perfect)
  • 3 zip-ties
  • A red-dot sight (this is completely optional, but it just helps aiming a little bit. Plus the red-dot sight only applies if you decide to mount it on the side instead of the bottom [I’ll explain mounting options later on]. However, if you do want the red-dot sight also get a fourth zip-tie)
  • Heavy duty tape (duct-tape will do)

Step 1: Cut the neck off your balloon so that there’s a wide opening. Don’t cut it too far down, but just down of where the narrow neck begins to widen. You can discard of the cut-off neck.

Step 2: Now take your toilet paper roll and fit the balloon over one end of it. Only have about an inch of the balloon actually over the toilet paper roll, the rest of it should just be hanging off the end. Once you have gotten the balloon about 1 inch over the toilet paper roll you can then tape it down with the heavy-duty/duct-tape. Make sure to tape it down firmly and to wrap it in several layers of tape to insure that it won’t come undone.

Step 3: Take the small piece of wood and tape it onto the toilet paper roll. But, only tape it down on either end, leaving the middle open so that you’ll be able to sqeeze the zip-ties in between the wood and the toilet paper roll later on. Make sure to tape it down tight enough so that the wood and toilet paper roll won’t become separated, but not so tight that you crush the toilet paper roll and that you’ll have enough leeway to sneak the zip-ties in-between. In the side-image below I taped the wood down with black tape so that you can see where you’re suppose to put it.

Step 4: Now you can spray paint the entire thing (try not to spray paint the balloon because it won’t be as stretchable). After the paint’s dried, take the orange duct-tape and wrap it all the way around the very front of the toilet paper roll (the opposite end of where the balloon is). The orange duct-tape will serve as the orange safety tip; It’s illegal to have a device that fires projectiles (besides real ammunition and metal BBs, that is) without a orange tip on the muzzle at least 3/4 of an inch thick. If you decide not to put the orange tape on the muzzle of your masterkey, then you run the risk of people thinking it’s a real firearm and can even get you in trouble with the police.

Step 5: Now take the zip-ties and squeeze them in between the piece of wood and the toilet paper roll. Since it’s made of cardboard, the toilet paper roll should bend inwards a little bit when you push the zip-ties though, giving you enough room to sneak them through. If you’re having a hard time, loosen the tape that’s holding it down. Make sure to space the three zip-ties at small intervals (one on near the end of the masterkey, one in the middle and one near the front). Don’t pull the zip-ties completely though. Pull/push them through just enough so that you have slack to go around the piece of wood, through one of the holes in the gun, out another hole in the gun, and back to the end of the zip-tie where you can pull it tight.

If you’re confused on what you’re suppose to be doing with the zip-tie then think of it this way: You’re basically tying the piece of wood to the gun, securing the masterkey. In the illustration below, the black part represents the zip-tie, the blue part is the hand-guard of the gun, the red parts are the holes on the hand-guard that the zip-tie goes through, the green part is the piece of wood, and finally the purple part is the actual masterkey which is obviously attached to the piece of wood:

So all you’re doing is completing that black loop with zip-ties in three different places.

If you’ve done it correctly, then it should look something like this:

As you can see, the black zip-ties go in-between the piece of wood, through a hole on the top of the hand-guard, out a hole in the bottom of the hand-guard, and finally connects back up with the other end of the zip-tie. You can then pull the zip-tie tight and cut off the excess.

It’s recommended that you mount the masterkey on the side of the gun instead of on the bottom rail; Mounting on the side allows you to pull the balloon back further when you’re firing, creating higher velocities, and it also allows you the option of attaching a sight onto it, if you’d like. The only downside is that it’s higher profile mounted on the side, and can sometimes bump into things and break.

How the masterkey works is, when you’re ready to fire, to pour 5-10 BBs directly in to the muzzle of the masterkey and let them trickle into the balloon. You then grasp the BBs from the outside of the balloon, holding them firmly in-between the balloon so that they wont fall back out the muzzle. You then  pull the balloon backwards and let it go to fire. The balloon will launch the BBs forward at about 200 FPS and has a effective range of 10-15ft.

And it’s very simple to attach a red-dot scope onto the masterkey if you want to. All you do is run a fourth zip-tie between the wood and the toilet paper roll (just like you did to mount it), except instead of going into the gun you run it over a red-dot sight and then tighten it down, keeping the sight firmly in place. The sight honestly doesn’t help too much, but it at least gives you a general idea of where you’re shooting at and it also has to “cool” factor.

Please give all credit from this project to SirBuffaloSushi and Airsofter United.

Tapco Intrafuse T6 Rubber Butt-Pad Review

The Tapco T6 Butt-Pad attaches to the butt of most M4s with adjustable stocks, compatible with both airsoft rifles and real ones.

The T6 Butt-Pad pops right onto most M4 style rifles with adjustable/collapsible stocks without any glue, tape, or any other bonding agent. It also pops right back off very easily if you pull on it, but it’s still snug enough that it won’t fall off in the middle of shooting. To give you an example of what type of stock works best, the T6 fits perfectly onto my personal JG M4 2010 Upgraded Version as well as the Crosman Stinger R34 airsoft rifles.

The T6 definitely helps the butt of your gun to stay up on your shoulder, especially if you’re wearing a backpack or a vest where there’s a strap right where the stock rests. It also takes off some of the impact that your shoulder gets from recoil on real guns.

The T6 also adds a full inch the the length of your gun, which can be both good and bad. If you have longer arms, you might benefit from the extra length. But if you already have your stock at a perfect length, the extension might make your rifle feel awkward. Although, truthfully, an extra inch doesn’t make that big of a difference on my personal airsoft rifles, and, besides, the T6 only fits onto adjustable stocks like I’ve mentioned, so you should be able to just adjust your stock an inch inward if you really don’t like the extra length.

It’s also extremely durable. It’s made fully of rubber, and can hold up to just about any climate or terrain you can throw at it.

In a wrap, the Tapco T6 Butt-Pad is a durable and cheap attachment for any M4. It works with both airsoft and real firearms and keeps your rifle up on your shoulder. The only down-side is the extra length, which isn’t even that big of a deal.

Rothco Outdoorsman Rucksack Review

The Rothco Outdoorsman Rucksack is a somewhat basic rucksack with multiple pockets, padded adjustable shoulder straps and a waist-strap for added support.

The Outdoorsman Rucksack is made almost completely of thin canvas material, with the exception of the straps and plastic buckles, which makes it light, but also a little less durable. It’s not delicate by any means, you can load quite a bit of weight into it without it faltering (I loaded my personal one up with 20lbs. worth of airsoft equipment and it didn’t seem to have any problems). Although, there’s a draw string underneath the flap at the top of the rucksack that you pull to close up the main compartment, and if you pull it to hard, it will start tearing into the fabric and cause it to fray.

The Outdoorsman Rucksack has 4 compartments: a main one which basically makes up the whole rucksack, two smaller side pockets on either side, and one pocket right on the front of the rucksack. Unless you’re carrying a single, large item, the big main pocket is kind of a waste. Because the main compartment is literally just a big empty pocket, with no kind of sorting or smaller compartments inside it. So if you want to put a bunch of smaller things in there (duct-tape, airsoft BBs, books, food, whatever), they get all mixed up and smashed. A solution to this is to get a bunch of smaller bags/backpacks  and place the smaller items in them, then put the bags into the big compartment. And the other 3 pockets aren’t even that big, nor do they have any type of sub-pockets, either.

Another thing to note is that rucksacks and backpacks are different. A backpack holds its shape and stays high up on your back, they also have a bunch of smaller pockets to store little items in. But a rucksack, like the Outdoorsman, is more or less a fabric bag that has no shape and hangs low on your back unless you put a large object into it to give it some shape. That’s why rucksacks are meant for holding bigger items like sleeping bags or wood (that’s why the Outdoorsman has that big unorganized compartment that I mentioned). Rucksacks aren’t bad, they’re just meant for different purposes then backpacks. So, if you’re thinking about buying the Outdoorsman Rucksack, just make sure you actually do want a rucksack and not a backpack.

Although, the large amount that the Outdoorsman Rucksack provides does come in handy. To give you an idea how much just the one big compartment will hold, deflated, the Intex Explorer 200 Inflatable Boat will fit with plenty of room to spare. Plus, you can stash another few small items in the other 3 pockets.

All in all, the Outdoorsman is a fairly good rucksack. As long as you’re sure you want a rucksack, it’s durable and can hold a load of weight. The waist-strap and adjustable shoulder straps also let it fit very well. For the price of $15-$25, you really can’t go wrong.

UTG Model 15 Tactical Foregrip

The UTG Model 15 Tactical Foregrip is one of the more basic grips out there, although it’s sturdy and gets the job done.

One of the biggest issues you might have is mounting it. It’s designed for Picatinny rails, which are smaller than the Weaver rails that are more commonly used in airsoft. The sides which grip the rail are also fixed, so you can’t make them any larger. But, if you push hard enough, you should be able to slide it on after a little trial and error. Once you get it on you simply tighten the big knob on the bottom to keep the grip from sliding backwards and forwards.

A cool thing about the UTG Model 15 Tactical Foregrip is that it’s ambidextrous. This means that it can be used for both right and left handed shooters.

There’s also two little plastic pieces on either side of the grip that are removable to make room for a pressure pad (flashlights, lasers, etc). To remove them, you just twist off the knob that keeps the grip from sliding backwards/forwards and they will just slide right off. And, like I said, there’s a piece on either side so that you can put the pressure pad on either side, depending on which hand you shoot with.

Another nice feature is the hidden compartment. The knob that keeps the grip in place/takes the plastic pieces off and on is really hollowed out. And there’s a little cap on the end of the knob that you can screw off to reveal the compartment. It’s mostly meant for carrying spare batteries, but you can carry anything from a folded up piece of paper to extra BBs very easily.

As far as sturdiness, the Model 15 Tactical Foregrip is very sturdy. It has no wobble at all and doesn’t budge even if you accidentally hit it against something while shooting in CQB. It’s even more sturdy if you did mount it on a Weaver rail because it fit so tight to begin with. You can even use it as a bi-pod if you’re lying down.

Using the grip does wear on you after a while. While it does make your gun more stable and therefore more accurate, it’s difficult to hold your arm out at length, with the weight of the gun on you, without wearing yourself out very quickly. Try holding your hand almost all the way out in a fist; you’ll start to feel uncomfort in under three minuets. Now try holding your hand closer to your body, right in front of wear the magazine would be, with you palm comfortably pointing upwards; you should be able to hold that stance for longer.

Although, you’re going to have that problem with any grip. Plus, the adrenalin from being in a airsoft fight (or real gun fight, if that’s what you’re planning on using it for) will give you a boost so that you won’t even feel it.

In a wrap, the UTG Model 15 Tactical Foregrip is a very sturdy, basic grip, but gets the job done. It has a couple cool features, and is also cheap for what it’s worth. Overall, I think this is a great investment for any kind of rifle, airsoft and real.

Crosman Nirto Lubricating Airsoft Oil Review

Crosman Nitro Lubricating Oil spays directly down the barrel of a airsoft gun and acts like WD40: helping decrease friction on the BB and increase velocity.

The saying “A little bit goes a long way,” is definitely applies when using Crosman Nitro Lubricant. If you spray too much then it can clog your gun and dramatically decrease BB velocity. And it’s also near impossible to remove once it’s inside the barrel, so just try to use a little bit at a time.

I personally accidentally sprayed too much into my Stinger P9, which before could hit targets from over 40 feet away with extreme accuracy, but will now only fire BBs 15 feet before they drop to the ground. I’ve tried multiple times to clean the barrel out with a cleaning rod to no effect. Like I said before, just use a little bit at a time (any more than a 2 second burst is too much).

Crosman says that for the first 100 shots after you’ve applied the Nitro Lube your gun will have decreased power and accuracy, but, in my experience, it usually takes a good 200 to 300 shots to fully regain the original power and accuracy. It’s not a huge deal, but immediately after you’ve used the Nitro Lube and cleaned out the extra residue, you should go out and stand about five feet away from your target and just unload the 200-300 shots to get your gun back to normal. This way, if the next day you want to go shoot, you can just start shooting like normal instead of having to shoot 300 breaking-in rounds.

Even after the first 200-300 shots, when you’ve regained the accuracy and power, there’s not much of a difference in velocity. In fact, if you test fired your gun before using the Nitro Lube, then test fired after you used the Nirto Lube (and fired the first 200-300 breaking-in shots), you really wouldn’t even be able to tell a difference. However, it does decrease jamming and help protect the barrel and prolong the guns overall life expectancy.

In a wrap, Crosman Nirto Lubricant won’t do much to increase velocity, but it can help protect your gun and prevent jamming. If you have a gun that’s already running well, then you might not want to risk accidentally spraying in too much lube and clogging your gun. But, for the $5 it costs, Crosman Nitro Lube can be a good investment to protect your gun in the long run or fix it if it’s prone to jamming; just don’t use too much!

NcSTAR Red-Dot Sight (With 4 Different Reticles) Review

The NcSTAR Red-Dot sight is a great multipurpose battery powered optic. With 4 different reticles, you can use it for a wide range of situations from pin-point long distant shots to Close Quarter Battle. It comes with an extra battery, a lens cover, a Allen Wrench, a small screw driver to open the battery compartment with, a cloth to clean the lens with, and a manual. It’s also available in black, camouflage, and silver.

The NcSTAR Red-Dot sight is really a lot smaller than it looks. It’s roughly three inches long, one and a half inches wide, and two inches tall. Its small size isn’t necessarily bad, though. Its low profile is great for CQB and also makes it lighter if you have an already heavy gun.

One of the biggest attractions is the 4 different reticles: a small crosshair, a regular dot, a circle within a circle, and another small crosshair with a circle around the center. You can easily change between them by turning a knob on the very back of the sight. Having 4 different reticles is great, like I said before, because of its versatility. If you need to make a pin-point sniper shot you can switch to the normal red-dot, but if you need to go into a building or a tight space, you can switch to the circle within a circle reticle.

There’s also 7 different brightness settings. 1 being for darker surroundings and 7 being for bright surroundings. You change the brightness by turning the big knob in the middle of the sight.

The reticle is projected onto the glass by a little window near the back of the sight. If you look at the sight backwards you can actually see a miniature version of the reticle with a light shining on it inside the little window. This means if you’re using the NcSTAR Red-Dot sight at nighttime, someone could spot you from the light inside the sight. This, however, is something you just have to live with because all red-dot sight are more or less going to have the same problem.

The NcSTAR Red-Dot sight easily mounts to any standard weaver/picatinny rail by unscrewing the bolts on the side with the included Allen Wrench and then tightening them back up once you have the sight positioned on your rail.

Adjusting the sight is also very easy. There’s a bolt on the top of the sight, and one on the side. You simply turn the bolt on the top right or left to make it the reticle aim higher or lower, and turn the bolt on the side left or right to make the reticle air more left or right. But, straight out of the box, it was already deadly accurate on my personal Jing Jong M4 airsoft rifle.

The last thing worth noting is the battery. It’s a CR2023 3-volt Micro Lithium Battery and can be accessed by unscrewing the very top of the brightness-selector knob. Like I said before; it comes with a spare, but they last quite a while so you might not even need it.

To wrap things up, the NcSTAR Red-Dot sight is one of the best out there. It’s small and low profile, but still gets the job done. And it’s very customizable and can easily adapt to what you want to use it for. You really can ask much more from a red-dot sight.

JG M4 S-System Airsoft Gun Review (2010 Version)

The JG M4 airsoft rifle is one of the most popular airsoft AEGs on the market. It’s battery powered and has full and semi-automatic firing modes. It’s also almost completely metal making it feel sturdy and durable.

One of the first things you notice about the JG M4 is the Weaver rails. As you can see in the picture above, there’s a rail that runs along the whole top of the gun as well as one on the bottom. It also comes with two smaller rails that are meant for the sling mount, but you can place on either side of the hand guard and use for mounting accessories. The iron sights are also folding, so that you can have a unobstructed view of a scope or sight. It comes, like I mentioned, with sling mounts, too, that you can install and uninstall with a couple screws. And being built around the M4 design makes it compatible with most M16/M4 airsoft magazines and accessories.

You can also upgrade it internally. It comes with instructions on how to disassemble it so that you can easily upgrade springs, gears, etc.

The JG M4 shoots .20 gram BB’s at a blistering 420 Feet Per Second (542 FPS with .12 grams). That’s about as high as you can get from a AEG without modifying it. From 50 feet away you can shoot right through a Crosman Gel-Target. This makes target shooting a lot of fun, but it might hurt a little too much for a friendly backyard skirmish. Plus, most airsoft fields won’t allow guns over 400 FPS.

The accuracy is also very good. Right out of the box you can easily hit a person-sized target from over 90 feet away. You can also adjust the front sight, back sight, and the hop-up to make it even more accurate.

There are a lot of moving parts on the JG M4 which adds to the realism. When you pull back the charging handle a dirt-flap springs open and reveals a wheel to adjust the hop-up. And there’s also a “front aim assist” button on the right side of the gun that you can press in. On a real gun this would help unjam bullets,  but, on this airsoft version, it doesn’t do anything and is just for decoration.

The battery is really the only big problem with the gun. It’s 8.4v 1100mAh and takes about 4 hours to charge. But the main problem is getting the battery into the gun. The battery compartment is inside the hand guard where the Weaver rails are. To get to it, you turn two screws and the the lower half of the hand guard will fall open. But there’s only a little bit of space for the battery to fit into, and when you start to close the hand guard back up, the wires connecting the battery to the gun get caught in between the lower and upper half of the hand guard, making it impossible to close. It almost takes two people to keep the wires out of the way while trying to keep the battery from falling out.

But even when you do get the battery in, it drains very quickly. Within three or four magazines, you need to recharge again.

The magazines themselves are basically just like any other AEG magazine. You pour the BB’s into the top of the magazine and then wind a wheel on the very bottom to get the BB’s to feed into the gun. Although, they only hold 300 rounds, which isn’t a lot when you’re shooting on the fully-automatic setting. But, like I said before, the JG M4 is compatible with most M16/M4 magazines, so you can buy spares.

The last thing worth noting is the Rate of Fire. On the fully-automatic setting it honestly doesn’t shoot that fast (maybe about 500-600 RPM on a good day). It doesn’t shoot slow by any standard, but my $99 Crosman Pulse R76 out shoots it considerably.

Overall, the JG M4 S-System airsoft rifle is pretty nice AEG, with one of the highest velocities that you can get. It’s fully customizable with tons of Weaver rails, as well as upgradable internally. The ROF is fairly low, but the accuracy, velocity, and durable metal build more than make up for it.

Specs:
Feet Per Second: 420 with .20 gram BB’s (542 with .12 gram)
Accuracy: Great
Power: Battery
Caliber: 6mm
Recommended BB Weight: .20 grams
Magazine Capacity: 300 BBs
Manufacture: Jing Gong

20 Tips and Pointers to Greatly Improve Your Airsoft Skills

These are 20 tips and pointers to greatly improve your airsoft game. As long as you keep these tips in mind, you will see much improved accuracy, focus, and overall performance in your airsoft. But, read these tips with a grain of salt, for example, numbers 12 and 13; having a bunch of different guns gives you versatility to use different style guns in different situations. But the point 12 and 13 are making is that if you are thinking about spending a bunch of money on a bunch of different guns, maybe you should think about buying one really good gun or upgrades for a gun you already have, instead.

  1. Always use your sights. You should almost never fire from the hip, even with fully-automatic guns.
  2. Practice how you would be in a game. Wear all the equipment, clothing, and use the exact guns that you would be using in a actual airsoft match while you practice.
  3. Use the correct BB weight for each individual gun. When you first get a gun, you should test which BB weight works best for that gun (test with the three major BB weights: .12 gram, .20 gram, and .25 gram). Look for accuracy and how far the BB will go before it lands.
  4. Keep a good grip on your gun while you’re shooting. Keep the stock (if you have a stock) firmly pressed against your shoulder and your weak hand holding the gun, while your strong hand pulls the trigger.
  5. With spring pistols, keep the gun in your strong hand and cock the slide with your weak hand. (Some people do it the opposite way because it’s easier to cock with your strong hand, but it decreases accuracy)
  6. Take your time and aim. Don’t panic and start firing if you see a opponent in a airsoft match, take you time to line up your sights and make a accurate shot.
  7. Once you fire, don’t wait around to see if you hit your target. After the BB leaves the barrel, there’s nothing more you can do. Immediately re-arm (get another BB chambered) your weapon before bothering to see if you’ve hit. If you missed, fire again. If you hit, move on.
  8. Wear the appropriate clothing. If you’re hot/cold/uncomfortable you’ll start hurrying shots and sacrificing accuracy.
  9. Calm yourself before a airsoft match. If you go in angry, nervous, etc. you will make mistakes. Get in the mind set of a robot: you need to remember all of what you’ve learned while practicing and what you’ve read in this post and complete your mission.
  10. Practice makes perfect. I know I’ve mentioned practicing before, but it’s vital that you do so. The more BBs you put down range the better you’ll get.
  11. Push yourself. If you push yourself to hit a 12-inch target at 50 feet away, think about how easy it’ll be to hit a player from 20 feet. Try to find your maximum range and then practice from even farther away.
  12. Upgrade the airsoft guns you have instead of buying more of them. Investing in optics, extra magazines, and accessories will greatly improve your performance with that gun. Besides, you can only shoot one gun at a time anyway.
  13. Invest in a good quality gun. This adds to number 12, if you invest in a more expensive, better gun, it’ll pay off. AEG’s (Automatic Electronic Gun), for example, are good to invest in. They’re usually fully-automatic and one will serve you better than the two cheaper spring guns that you could have bought for the same amount of money.
  14. When retreating, don’t attempt to fire back. You should only retreat when it’s your last option and you’ve already tried everything to hold back opposing players. That said, you shouldn’t turn around to fire back if you’re already retreating. If you couldn’t hold off opposing players staying still, you’re not going to do anything randomly firing backwards as you are trying to run away. The chances of actually hitting someone is slim and trying will only slow you down and give the other team time to catch up to you.
  15. Be tactical. For example, if you’re planning to come around a corner (this especially applies for CQB game-play), take out your secondary, which is smaller and lighter than your primary, and breech the corner with that. This will allow you to bring your gun up and aim much faster than you would using your primary. As soon as you’ve cleared the corner, though, start using your primary again.
  16. Use all the tools at your disposal. If you have a airsoft grenade, don’t be afraid to use it. The same goes for if you have a flashlight, secondary, speed re-loader, or any other tool you may have. Make it as easy for yourself as you can.
  17. If cover is available use it. Unlike video games, though, visual cover might not be the greatest choice. The mandatory orange tip on the mussel of every airsoft gun pretty much makes it imposable to try to hide. If you’re laying down in visual cover and are spotted you are in some deep trouble. On the other hand, using physical cover is a good strategy. You can pop in and out of physical cover, making quick shots when you come out and then immediately going back in, gives the opposing players very little chance to hit you.
  18. When there’s a break in the action, you should immediately reload. When you do reload, make sure you’re completely maxed out. Depending on how safe you are, take time to get a BB in the chamber as well as completely reloading your magazine. Make sure to keep an eye out for enemy players and at least a couple bullets loaded into one of your weapons, while you reload the other one; you’re most vulnerable when you’re reloading.
  19. We’ve already mentioned practice multiple times before, but it’s important to maximizing your practice time. Apart from “pushing yourself”, drills are the best way to go. Practice everything: reloading, shooting while moving, shooting while lying down, coming in and out of cover, etc.. Do a drill multiple times. It will get boring and frustrating after a while but you just need to take a little break, reestablish yourself, and keep on going. Succession is key.
  20. The last tip is one of the most important and the most obvious. Take care of your guns and they will take care of you. Keep them in a safe place where they won’t be broken, lube and clean them as necessary, and (as mentioned before) give them the right ammunition.