How to Make a Airsoft Masterkey

Masterkeys are basically miniature shotguns that can be attached onto tactical rails on a rifle. They’re great for CQB (Close Quarter Battle) because they have a wide spray radius and can take down multiple targets at a time. However, airsoft masterkeys are expensive and usually require Green-Gas to operate. In this post you’ll learn how to make a effective airsoft masterkey that operates without gas that’s made from inexpensive, household items.

This is what you’ll need:

  • An airsoft rifle that has tactical rails, preferably with holes lining the hand-guard. For example, the Crosman Stinger R34 is a perfect gun to use.
  • A toilet paper roll
  • Spray paint (I’d recommend using a standard color [black, OD green, etc.] for tactical reasons, but you can use a more creative color if you want to be unique)
  • Bright orange duct-tape
  • A sturdy balloon (try to keep it the same color as the spray paint you’re using)
  • A flat piece of wood, about as long and a little bit skinnier than the toilet paper roll (the wood from a mousetrap is perfect)
  • 3 zip-ties
  • A red-dot sight (this is completely optional, but it just helps aiming a little bit. Plus the red-dot sight only applies if you decide to mount it on the side instead of the bottom [I’ll explain mounting options later on]. However, if you do want the red-dot sight also get a fourth zip-tie)
  • Heavy duty tape (duct-tape will do)

Step 1: Cut the neck off your balloon so that there’s a wide opening. Don’t cut it too far down, but just down of where the narrow neck begins to widen. You can discard of the cut-off neck.

Step 2: Now take your toilet paper roll and fit the balloon over one end of it. Only have about an inch of the balloon actually over the toilet paper roll, the rest of it should just be hanging off the end. Once you have gotten the balloon about 1 inch over the toilet paper roll you can then tape it down with the heavy-duty/duct-tape. Make sure to tape it down firmly and to wrap it in several layers of tape to insure that it won’t come undone.

Step 3: Take the small piece of wood and tape it onto the toilet paper roll. But, only tape it down on either end, leaving the middle open so that you’ll be able to sqeeze the zip-ties in between the wood and the toilet paper roll later on. Make sure to tape it down tight enough so that the wood and toilet paper roll won’t become separated, but not so tight that you crush the toilet paper roll and that you’ll have enough leeway to sneak the zip-ties in-between. In the side-image below I taped the wood down with black tape so that you can see where you’re suppose to put it.

Step 4: Now you can spray paint the entire thing (try not to spray paint the balloon because it won’t be as stretchable). After the paint’s dried, take the orange duct-tape and wrap it all the way around the very front of the toilet paper roll (the opposite end of where the balloon is). The orange duct-tape will serve as the orange safety tip; It’s illegal to have a device that fires projectiles (besides real ammunition and metal BBs, that is) without a orange tip on the muzzle at least 3/4 of an inch thick. If you decide not to put the orange tape on the muzzle of your masterkey, then you run the risk of people thinking it’s a real firearm and can even get you in trouble with the police.

Step 5: Now take the zip-ties and squeeze them in between the piece of wood and the toilet paper roll. Since it’s made of cardboard, the toilet paper roll should bend inwards a little bit when you push the zip-ties though, giving you enough room to sneak them through. If you’re having a hard time, loosen the tape that’s holding it down. Make sure to space the three zip-ties at small intervals (one on near the end of the masterkey, one in the middle and one near the front). Don’t pull the zip-ties completely though. Pull/push them through just enough so that you have slack to go around the piece of wood, through one of the holes in the gun, out another hole in the gun, and back to the end of the zip-tie where you can pull it tight.

If you’re confused on what you’re suppose to be doing with the zip-tie then think of it this way: You’re basically tying the piece of wood to the gun, securing the masterkey. In the illustration below, the black part represents the zip-tie, the blue part is the hand-guard of the gun, the red parts are the holes on the hand-guard that the zip-tie goes through, the green part is the piece of wood, and finally the purple part is the actual masterkey which is obviously attached to the piece of wood:

So all you’re doing is completing that black loop with zip-ties in three different places.

If you’ve done it correctly, then it should look something like this:

As you can see, the black zip-ties go in-between the piece of wood, through a hole on the top of the hand-guard, out a hole in the bottom of the hand-guard, and finally connects back up with the other end of the zip-tie. You can then pull the zip-tie tight and cut off the excess.

It’s recommended that you mount the masterkey on the side of the gun instead of on the bottom rail; Mounting on the side allows you to pull the balloon back further when you’re firing, creating higher velocities, and it also allows you the option of attaching a sight onto it, if you’d like. The only downside is that it’s higher profile mounted on the side, and can sometimes bump into things and break.

How the masterkey works is, when you’re ready to fire, to pour 5-10 BBs directly in to the muzzle of the masterkey and let them trickle into the balloon. You then grasp the BBs from the outside of the balloon, holding them firmly in-between the balloon so that they wont fall back out the muzzle. You then  pull the balloon backwards and let it go to fire. The balloon will launch the BBs forward at about 200 FPS and has a effective range of 10-15ft.

And it’s very simple to attach a red-dot scope onto the masterkey if you want to. All you do is run a fourth zip-tie between the wood and the toilet paper roll (just like you did to mount it), except instead of going into the gun you run it over a red-dot sight and then tighten it down, keeping the sight firmly in place. The sight honestly doesn’t help too much, but it at least gives you a general idea of where you’re shooting at and it also has to “cool” factor.

Please give all credit from this project to SirBuffaloSushi and Airsofter United.


How to Make a Airsoft Grenade

Airsoft grenades that you can find on the internet are usually expensive and almost always require gas/CO2 to operate. This means that unless you’re ready to deal with the expense that come with real airsoft grenades, you’re stuck making one yourself. Making it yourself isn’t all bad, though. It’s cheaper and you don’t have to wait for shipping, and you can modify it for bigger/smaller explosions.

This is what you’ll need:

  • Small water bottle (the thinner the plastic the better. Some cheap 20oz Aquafina bottles are great)
  • .12 gram airsoft BBs
  • A couple tissues
  • Vinegar
  • Baking Soda

Step 1 – The first thing you want to do is fill your bottle up about half way with vinegar (maybe a little more than half way). Then pour about 30 airsoft BBs into the bottle. You can use more or less BBs depending on how many people you want to hit.

Step 2 – Take a tissue and lay it out flat. In the middle pour about 1oz of baking soda (the more baking soda, the bigger the boom, just make sure that your roll isn’t to fat to fit through the mouth of the bottle) then roll the tissue up, making a long straw type shape. Make sure to fold up both ends at some point during when you’re getting to the end of rolling it up, making sure that no baking soda will fall out the top or bottom.

Step 3 – Now when you’re ready to throw your grenade, drop the baking soda roll through the mouth of the bottle, screw the cap of the bottle on as tight as you can and then shake. You should feel the bottle getting bigger and bigger in your hand. When you think it’s about to blow, whip it at something solid near your targets. Pavement is ideal, but a wood structure or anything else is good. If you simply toss it on the ground it may not build enough pressure to explode; the best thing to do is whip it at something solid, as stated above. The thinner the plastic is on your bottle is the better chance you’ll have of a good explosion.

When the grenade goes off the sound is very loud (close to the sound of a gun shot). So, you may not want to use these at night or in the early morning. The bottle also gets completely shredded, so it’s pretty much a one-time use.

BBs fly within a 20-30ft radius. Depending on where you get hit it’ll sting a little bit.

Please give all credit for this project to SirBuffaloSushi and

How to Make a Airsoft Mortar

Mortars are very common over in the Middle-East (among other places), not to mention very effective. Bringing the concept of the mortar to an airsoft field is outright destructive. Unfortunately no one makes airsoft mortars; which means you’re stuck making one yourself. Making it yourself isn’t all bad, though. By making it yourself it’s cheaper, if it needs maintenance you know how to fix it, and it can be plain fun.

This is what you need:

  • A plastic bottle (a small 20oz-ish bottle is perfect)
  • A 1-1/2ft long, 1/2in diameter PVC pipe (the diameter depends on how big the mouth on your bottle is; the PVC pipe just needs to fit snugly into the mouth of the bottle)
  • Electrical tape (or any kind of tape, for that matter; it just has to be able to be peeled off and on multiple times and still work)
  • A latex glove (like the ones doctors use; real thin and stretchable) (you can find ones like these at BJ’s or a automotive store)
  • Spray paint (It’s up to you what color to make your mortar; black is default, but OD Green looks awesome, or you can make it a fun color, it’s up to you)

Step 1 – Take your latex glove and cut a good sized square out of it (3in x 3in will do). Now take that latex square and stretch it over one end of your PVC pipe. Completely cover the hole on the one end. Stretch the latex until it’s close to breaking and tape it firmly in place. It should look something like this:

Step 2 – Slide your PVC pipe with the latex square taped onto it into the mouth of the bottle (latex side first). Slide it about 1/2 an inch into the bottle and then stop. With another piece of tape, secure the PVC pipe into the bottle by wrapping the tape very tightly around the mouth of the bottle, making a airtight seal. It should look like this:

Step 3 – Now all you have left to do is paint it. I recommend using a spray paint that’s meant for plastic, so it won’t peel off when you step on the bottle or peel the tape on and off. This is the final product (I painted mine in a dual-tone black/OD Green kind of thing):

How you shoot your mortar is you put airsoft BBs (7-10 of them) into the open end of the PVC pipe. Then you step on the the bottle with your foot. Stepping on the bottle will automatically raise the PVC pipe in the air a little bit. Put all your weight on the bottle and finally the latex will break and send a surge of air through the PVC pipe and project the BBs. Do not stomp on the bottle, just slowly put more and more weight on it until the latex snaps.

The only down side of this mortar is that to reload you have to unwrap the tape, pull out the PVC pipe, unwrap the other tap, pull off the popped latex, replace it with a new piece of latex, tape it up, put the bottle back on, and re-tape that again. Believe it or not, though, if you get a couple of teammates helping you, you can have it reloaded in about a minuet.

For accurate aiming you can even have a friend lift the PVC pipe up/down a little bit for greater/lesser distance. Although it looks pretty far from a real mortar, it fires just like one; all your BBs should rain down within a 10ft area. The mortar has a effective range of about 50ft. The BBs won’t hurt too bad, but you should be able to tell if you get hit. If you want to take your mortar to the next level (and make it look more like a real mortar), you can take a two sticks and tape them near the front of the PVC pipe (almost like a bipod).

Please give all credit for this project to SirBuffaloSushi and

How to Make a Airsoft Claymore

The only airsoft claymores that you can find are over $100. So, unless you’re willing to shell out big bucks for a simple claymore, you’re stuck making one yourself. Making it yourself isn’t all bad, though. You can construct a decent airsoft claymore with some around-the-house items pretty easily. Plus, you know how it works if it ever needs maintenance.

This is what you need:

  • A cardboard box (it doesn’t need to be huge, but don’t make it too small)
  • Fishing line (or invisible thread)
  • Duct-tape
  • Some bendable wire (the wire needs to be manipulable, but sturdy enough so it won’t bend under some light weight; wire from a old clothing rack is perfect) (if you don’t have wire, then you can use a couple skinny sticks)
  • A mousetrap
  • Spray paint (OD Green or some type of Camouflage is best, but it’s to try to make it blend in with the environment, so if you live in the desert use brown and khaki, or for winter/snow use white or gray)
  • Cutting tools (to cut cardboard, string, and wire)

Step 1 – The first step is to prep your box. As stated above, you want a medium sized box, it also needs to be pretty deep. Take your box and cut the flaps off, so it looks like this:

Step 2 – After you’ve cut off the flaps, you can discard them. The next thing you want to do is take four pieces of wire (about 2 feet long) and poke them through the bottom of your box near each of the corners:

Step 3 – Now bend a little part of the wire that is poking up inside the box down and then pull it out the bottom of the box. Then bend the wire so it won’t come back up. Basically you want to make a hook-shaped thing, then pull the hook back through the bottom, leaving about a inch of cardboard left between where the wire initially went in and where the hook comes out (if you’re using sticks, you can skip this step):

Step 4 – So now you have the legs almost done. Now just put some Duct-tape over the inch of cardboard, ensuring it won’t tear causing the leg to come out (if you’re using sticks, then you’ll want to find some way to glue or tape your sticks to get them to stay in place. But, you want them to be able to swing back and forth) :

Step 5 – Now cut two vertical slits in the middle of the bottom of the box, about three inches long and four inches apart:

Step 6 – Take your mouse trap and tie multiple strands of fishing line/invisible thread and tie it to the part of the mouse trap that snaps down and would normally hit the mouse. Tape the other end of the string to bottom of the mouse trap. Make it long enough so if the mouse trap went off it would stop half way, like this (in this case I used yarn so you can see it. It really doesn’t matter what kind of string you use for this step, as long as it’s strong enough, because you’ll spray paint it anyway):

Step 7 – Now take your duct tape and cover the mouse-hitting thing, making a little sort of pocket:

Step 8 – Place the mouse trap (mouse-hitting side facing out of the box) between the slits you made in step 5. Tape the mouse trap down by threading a long piece of tape up through one slit, over part of the mouse trap, and back out the second slit. Make sure that the mouse trap will still fire half way, and that you didn’t accidentally tape the mouse-hitter thing down:

Step 9 – Next, take two pieces of wire (the size of the length between the front left to front right/back left to back right legs) and then bring both of the back legs forward past the front legs and connect a wire between them. Then connect the front legs. Use tape and string to lash the wire between the legs. So now the legs are crisscrossed, just like a real claymore:

Step 10 – Tie a 10ft piece of fishing line/invisible thread to the trigger part of the mouse trap (by “trigger” I mean the part the mouse steps on to set off the trap; sometimes it’s a cheese shaped piece of plastic, or sometimes it’s just a little piece of metal). Tie the other end to a 2ft tall piece of wire/stick. Then you can go ahead and spray paint the whole thing. As stated in the directions, you want a color that will blend into the environment that you’re going to use it in; the point isn’t to make it invisible, just not appear so obvious. This is what the finished product should look like (I made mine OD Green because I live in a sort of woody area with lots of Evergreen trees and bushes. The wire that has the string attached to the mouse trap is black. The image came out a little blurry, but the legs on the claymore are also OD Green):

How your claymore works is you stick it in the ground and stick the 2ft tall wire/stick that’s attached to the mouse trap about 9ft away, giving the line in between the wire and the mouse trap just enough slack that the claymore won’t go off on accident. Now set the mouse trap just like you normally would. Put 10 or so airsoft BBs on top of the duct tape pocket that you made on the mouse-hitter thing. Now your claymore is set. If someone bumps into the fishing line, the mouse trap will go off and stop abruptly half way, which will send the BBs sitting on top of the mouse trap flying into whoever hit the fishing line. If the BBs hit bare skin it’ll sting just a little bit, and if they hit fabric, you’ll feel them but they won’t hurt too bad.

The best way to use your claymore is in airsoft matches; put it around a corner where it’s hidden and when someone comes running past they’ll hit the fishing line and the claymore will get them. Your paint job camouflage will come in handy if you plant the claymore in high grass or brush.

Please give all credit for this project to SirBuffaloSushi and

How to Make a Airsoft Silencer/Suppressor

Silencers/Suppressors really don’t silence or suppress anything in airsoft, they’re mainly for looks, although they increase accuracy. This post will show you how to make a simple airsoft silencer/suppressor from around the house items. In order for this silencer/suppressor to work, you need to put it on a airsoft gun that has a long-ish safety tip that your silencer can fit over, like this:

This is what you need:

  • A cardboard paper towel roll
  • Foam pipe instillation (1/2 inch diameter is fits the average gun, but you can buy 3/4 inch and up, depending on how large your orange safety tip is. It’s better to end up with a loose fitting one than one that won’t fit at all)
  • Tape (duct tape is best)
  • Bright orange tape (again, orange duct tape is best)
  • Spray paint (it’s up to you what color you want your silencer; black is standard, but you can make it match the color of your gun, or you can use a fun color, or OD Green looks pretty cool)
  • Cutting tools (to cut your paper towel roll, the instillation, and the tape)

Step 1 – The first thing you do is take your paper towel roll and the pipe instillation and cut them both to a length of 8in. You can make them shorter for CQB, but just make sure they’re the same size (also, save any piece of cardboard paper towel roll that you cut off to use later):

Step 2 – Next, fit the pipe instillation into the cardboard roll; it should be a snug fit:

Step 3- Now tape both ends up with tape so the pipe instillation won’t come out. Tape one end with the normal duct tape and tape the other with the bright orange (just make sure that you don’t cover up the hole of the pipe instillation):

Step 4 – Now all that’s left is to spray paint the whole thing. Just do not paint over the orange duct tape; this with serve as a safety tip (it’s illegal to have a airsoft gun without a bright orange tip on the end of it):

Step 5 – Now simply slide your silencer/suppressor over the orange safety tip on your gun. If it’s loose then you can take the little piece of cardboard roll that you saved earlier and cut it so you can open it up. Then roll it as tight as you can and glue it to the inside of the silencer. What this will do is make a smaller hole for your tip to fit in. This is what it should look like when it’s on your gun:

Like I said, it doesn’t silence or suppress, but it will increase the accuracy and look really cool. If you have problems with the silencer falling off then you can take the extra piece of cardboard and make the suppressor hole smaller, as explained above. Or, if you know you want the silencer on your gun for a while, you could even glue or tape the silencer onto your gun, although the cardboard trick should keep the silencer in place.

Please give all credit for this project to SirBuffaloSushi and