Crosman Nirto Lubricating Airsoft Oil Review

Crosman Nitro Lubricating Oil spays directly down the barrel of a airsoft gun and acts like WD40: helping decrease friction on the BB and increase velocity.

The saying “A little bit goes a long way,” is definitely applies when using Crosman Nitro Lubricant. If you spray too much then it can clog your gun and dramatically decrease BB velocity. And it’s also near impossible to remove once it’s inside the barrel, so just try to use a little bit at a time.

I personally accidentally sprayed too much into my Stinger P9, which before could hit targets from over 40 feet away with extreme accuracy, but will now only fire BBs 15 feet before they drop to the ground. I’ve tried multiple times to clean the barrel out with a cleaning rod to no effect. Like I said before, just use a little bit at a time (any more than a 2 second burst is too much).

Crosman says that for the first 100 shots after you’ve applied the Nitro Lube your gun will have decreased power and accuracy, but, in my experience, it usually takes a good 200 to 300 shots to fully regain the original power and accuracy. It’s not a huge deal, but immediately after you’ve used the Nitro Lube and cleaned out the extra residue, you should go out and stand about five feet away from your target and just unload the 200-300 shots to get your gun back to normal. This way, if the next day you want to go shoot, you can just start shooting like normal instead of having to shoot 300 breaking-in rounds.

Even after the first 200-300 shots, when you’ve regained the accuracy and power, there’s not much of a difference in velocity. In fact, if you test fired your gun before using the Nitro Lube, then test fired after you used the Nirto Lube (and fired the first 200-300 breaking-in shots), you really wouldn’t even be able to tell a difference. However, it does decrease jamming and help protect the barrel and prolong the guns overall life expectancy.

In a wrap, Crosman Nirto Lubricant won’t do much to increase velocity, but it can help protect your gun and prevent jamming. If you have a gun that’s already running well, then you might not want to risk accidentally spraying in too much lube and clogging your gun. But, for the $5 it costs, Crosman Nitro Lube can be a good investment to protect your gun in the long run or fix it if it’s prone to jamming; just don’t use too much!

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20 Tips and Pointers to Greatly Improve Your Airsoft Skills

These are 20 tips and pointers to greatly improve your airsoft game. As long as you keep these tips in mind, you will see much improved accuracy, focus, and overall performance in your airsoft. But, read these tips with a grain of salt, for example, numbers 12 and 13; having a bunch of different guns gives you versatility to use different style guns in different situations. But the point 12 and 13 are making is that if you are thinking about spending a bunch of money on a bunch of different guns, maybe you should think about buying one really good gun or upgrades for a gun you already have, instead.

  1. Always use your sights. You should almost never fire from the hip, even with fully-automatic guns.
  2. Practice how you would be in a game. Wear all the equipment, clothing, and use the exact guns that you would be using in a actual airsoft match while you practice.
  3. Use the correct BB weight for each individual gun. When you first get a gun, you should test which BB weight works best for that gun (test with the three major BB weights: .12 gram, .20 gram, and .25 gram). Look for accuracy and how far the BB will go before it lands.
  4. Keep a good grip on your gun while you’re shooting. Keep the stock (if you have a stock) firmly pressed against your shoulder and your weak hand holding the gun, while your strong hand pulls the trigger.
  5. With spring pistols, keep the gun in your strong hand and cock the slide with your weak hand. (Some people do it the opposite way because it’s easier to cock with your strong hand, but it decreases accuracy)
  6. Take your time and aim. Don’t panic and start firing if you see a opponent in a airsoft match, take you time to line up your sights and make a accurate shot.
  7. Once you fire, don’t wait around to see if you hit your target. After the BB leaves the barrel, there’s nothing more you can do. Immediately re-arm (get another BB chambered) your weapon before bothering to see if you’ve hit. If you missed, fire again. If you hit, move on.
  8. Wear the appropriate clothing. If you’re hot/cold/uncomfortable you’ll start hurrying shots and sacrificing accuracy.
  9. Calm yourself before a airsoft match. If you go in angry, nervous, etc. you will make mistakes. Get in the mind set of a robot: you need to remember all of what you’ve learned while practicing and what you’ve read in this post and complete your mission.
  10. Practice makes perfect. I know I’ve mentioned practicing before, but it’s vital that you do so. The more BBs you put down range the better you’ll get.
  11. Push yourself. If you push yourself to hit a 12-inch target at 50 feet away, think about how easy it’ll be to hit a player from 20 feet. Try to find your maximum range and then practice from even farther away.
  12. Upgrade the airsoft guns you have instead of buying more of them. Investing in optics, extra magazines, and accessories will greatly improve your performance with that gun. Besides, you can only shoot one gun at a time anyway.
  13. Invest in a good quality gun. This adds to number 12, if you invest in a more expensive, better gun, it’ll pay off. AEG’s (Automatic Electronic Gun), for example, are good to invest in. They’re usually fully-automatic and one will serve you better than the two cheaper spring guns that you could have bought for the same amount of money.
  14. When retreating, don’t attempt to fire back. You should only retreat when it’s your last option and you’ve already tried everything to hold back opposing players. That said, you shouldn’t turn around to fire back if you’re already retreating. If you couldn’t hold off opposing players staying still, you’re not going to do anything randomly firing backwards as you are trying to run away. The chances of actually hitting someone is slim and trying will only slow you down and give the other team time to catch up to you.
  15. Be tactical. For example, if you’re planning to come around a corner (this especially applies for CQB game-play), take out your secondary, which is smaller and lighter than your primary, and breech the corner with that. This will allow you to bring your gun up and aim much faster than you would using your primary. As soon as you’ve cleared the corner, though, start using your primary again.
  16. Use all the tools at your disposal. If you have a airsoft grenade, don’t be afraid to use it. The same goes for if you have a flashlight, secondary, speed re-loader, or any other tool you may have. Make it as easy for yourself as you can.
  17. If cover is available use it. Unlike video games, though, visual cover might not be the greatest choice. The mandatory orange tip on the mussel of every airsoft gun pretty much makes it imposable to try to hide. If you’re laying down in visual cover and are spotted you are in some deep trouble. On the other hand, using physical cover is a good strategy. You can pop in and out of physical cover, making quick shots when you come out and then immediately going back in, gives the opposing players very little chance to hit you.
  18. When there’s a break in the action, you should immediately reload. When you do reload, make sure you’re completely maxed out. Depending on how safe you are, take time to get a BB in the chamber as well as completely reloading your magazine. Make sure to keep an eye out for enemy players and at least a couple bullets loaded into one of your weapons, while you reload the other one; you’re most vulnerable when you’re reloading.
  19. We’ve already mentioned practice multiple times before, but it’s important to maximizing your practice time. Apart from “pushing yourself”, drills are the best way to go. Practice everything: reloading, shooting while moving, shooting while lying down, coming in and out of cover, etc.. Do a drill multiple times. It will get boring and frustrating after a while but you just need to take a little break, reestablish yourself, and keep on going. Succession is key.
  20. The last tip is one of the most important and the most obvious. Take care of your guns and they will take care of you. Keep them in a safe place where they won’t be broken, lube and clean them as necessary, and (as mentioned before) give them the right ammunition.

How to Make a Airsoft Silencer/Suppressor

Silencers/Suppressors really don’t silence or suppress anything in airsoft, they’re mainly for looks, although they increase accuracy. This post will show you how to make a simple airsoft silencer/suppressor from around the house items. In order for this silencer/suppressor to work, you need to put it on a airsoft gun that has a long-ish safety tip that your silencer can fit over, like this:

This is what you need:

  • A cardboard paper towel roll
  • Foam pipe instillation (1/2 inch diameter is fits the average gun, but you can buy 3/4 inch and up, depending on how large your orange safety tip is. It’s better to end up with a loose fitting one than one that won’t fit at all)
  • Tape (duct tape is best)
  • Bright orange tape (again, orange duct tape is best)
  • Spray paint (it’s up to you what color you want your silencer; black is standard, but you can make it match the color of your gun, or you can use a fun color, or OD Green looks pretty cool)
  • Cutting tools (to cut your paper towel roll, the instillation, and the tape)

Step 1 – The first thing you do is take your paper towel roll and the pipe instillation and cut them both to a length of 8in. You can make them shorter for CQB, but just make sure they’re the same size (also, save any piece of cardboard paper towel roll that you cut off to use later):

Step 2 – Next, fit the pipe instillation into the cardboard roll; it should be a snug fit:

Step 3- Now tape both ends up with tape so the pipe instillation won’t come out. Tape one end with the normal duct tape and tape the other with the bright orange (just make sure that you don’t cover up the hole of the pipe instillation):

Step 4 – Now all that’s left is to spray paint the whole thing. Just do not paint over the orange duct tape; this with serve as a safety tip (it’s illegal to have a airsoft gun without a bright orange tip on the end of it):

Step 5 – Now simply slide your silencer/suppressor over the orange safety tip on your gun. If it’s loose then you can take the little piece of cardboard roll that you saved earlier and cut it so you can open it up. Then roll it as tight as you can and glue it to the inside of the silencer. What this will do is make a smaller hole for your tip to fit in. This is what it should look like when it’s on your gun:

Like I said, it doesn’t silence or suppress, but it will increase the accuracy and look really cool. If you have problems with the silencer falling off then you can take the extra piece of cardboard and make the suppressor hole smaller, as explained above. Or, if you know you want the silencer on your gun for a while, you could even glue or tape the silencer onto your gun, although the cardboard trick should keep the silencer in place.

Please give all credit for this project to SirBuffaloSushi and AirsofterUnited.wordpress.com

Crash-Course in Airsoft (The Basics of Airsoft)

Airsoft is as close to real combat you can get, without putting your life in peril. Airsoft is usually a team sport, and people of all ages everywhere are getting in on the action. The whole point is: take out the enemy and don’t get shot doing it. The rules are different everywhere, and depending on how many people are playing, the rules can vary from all out war, to if you get hit you must sit out for the rest of the round until a team has won, to capture the flag, to just friendly backyard skirmishes. There’s almost infinite ways to play, and there’s not a right or a wrong way.

The most important and most basic thing you need for airsofting is a airsoft gun. Basically how a airsoft gun works is, in some fashion, a spring is compressed along with a little pocket of air, which propels a BB (BBs are small plastic spheres that airsoft guns shoot. They usually have a diameter of 6mm, so they’re pretty small).  There’s several different types of guns, here’s a little list of the three different types:

AEG (Automatic Electric Gun)
– This is battery powered. You must charge a 7-12 (sometimes greater) volt battery and hook it up to the gun to give it power. As far as batteries go, there’s two measurements that come into play: Volts – volts measure how powerful the battery is, the more volts, the faster a gun will shoot, and also the higher rate of fire and velocity there will be (even a small upgrade in battery can dramatically improve a gun). The only down side is that if you have to strong of a battery, it might overwhelm the gun and break it. The second measurement is mAh – this is how much power a battery can store. For example, a 1200 mAh battery can last a (let’s say) 10 hour battle; a 1800 mAh battery can last a 14 hour battle. That’s just some basic examples of different battery terminology.

The upside of an AEG is that it is usually fully automatic, which means with a single pull of the trigger multiple BB’s can be fired. AEG’s are the most popular type of airsoft gun for fights because of this. Out shooting the enemy is the biggest advantage you can have in any kind of gun fight. AEG’s usually have relatively good FPS (feet per second; I’ll talk about FPS later) which is also a benefit.

Spring/Bolt Action – Spring/Bolt Action powered means you must cock something back before each shot. On pistols you usually cock the slide back, rifles usually have a charging handle on the top or on the side, and revolvers you must cock the hammer back. Either way, what it does is compress a spring and capture air that will then help propel the BB. This type of gun is the most common type because of its simplicity, cheapness, and because it will fire under extreme heat/coldness where the batteries inside AEG’s or the CO2 inside Gas Powered guns might fail in extreme weather. You can even get spring guns wet and muddy and they still will fire (although, you should clean and dry them if they get wet because the springs will rust). But, as stated before, spring powered guns require you cock back the slide/cocking mechanism which make them slow to shoot, so they just can’t compete with AEG’s and Gas Powered guns.

Bolt action is the same thing as spring powered; basically you compress a spring to shoot the BB, it’s just in a different form. With bolt action, you take a handle and rack it back then forward again to compress the spring and get a BB in the chamber, exactly as you would with real guns (except with real bullets, also). But bolt action can compress stronger springs which results in higher FPS. This is why bolt action is almost exclusively used on sniper rifles. If you’re confused, the main difference is that with bolt action you pull a big bolt back, and with spring action you simply rack a charging handle. But, bolt can produce higher FPS than spring.

CO2/Green Gas – This type of gun requires a CO2/Green Gas power outlet to work. All you have to do is screw in your power outlet and you’re ready to shoot. With CO2 and Green Gas powered guns the emphasis is on power.

An example of CO2 power outlets

Since CO2/Green Gas is doing the work instead of springs (AEG’s and Spring/Bolt Action require springs to work), the BB can be shot at much higher velocities (C02 and Green Gas still use springs, they’re just not so vital). And like AEG’s, you don’t have to cock back each time which means you can fire as fast as you can pull the trigger. Usually Co2/Green Gas are only semi-automatic which means with every pull of the trigger one shot is fired, but there are a handful of fully-automatic Co2/Green Gas out there. Fully-automatic means with one pull of the trigger, multiple BBs can be fired.

*

Now for some terms you hear a lot in airsoft:

The difference between full-automatic and semi-automatic – if you didn’t understand fully/semi-automatic guns from the descriptions I gave above, I’ll explain it further. Semi-automatic means that every time you pull the trigger, one bullet/BB will shoot out. Fully-automatic means that if you pull the trigger, multiple bullets/BBs can be fired. As long as you hold down the trigger with fully-automatic, a steady stream of BBs will be shooting out. To give you a idea of which type of gun usually does what (this is just a general overlook, there can be exceptions):

AEG’s – usually have both fully and semi-automatic features
Spring/Bolt Action – neither; you must manually pull some sort of charging lever back before each shot
Co2/Green Gas – Usually semi-automatic only. Although, there are a couple of fully-automatic models out there

Now, for those who are completely new to airsoft or any type of gun, what the “safety” feature is. Every gun has safety, every single type and model; it is both unsafe and illegal to have a firearm without a working safety. A safety locks the trigger into place, so that a gun won’t go off by bumping into things. When a working safety is on, it is impossible to discharge the gun. It’s just that simple. Every airsofter (and firearm owner, for that matter) must always have their gun on safety when not in use.

ROF (Rate of Fire) is how many BB’s a gun, usually a AEG, will fire per minuet. Pretty simple. So if a gun had a ROF of 800, that means, that it will fire 800 BBs in one minuet.

There’s also a couple different types of “Blow-back” airsoft guns. Blow-back just means that when you fire the gun, the slide will blow back, just like a real gun. Blow-back airsoft guns can be Co2 or Electric (AEG). The benefits to a blow-back gun is that it looks realistic, and it chambers a BB each shot, so that it shoots as fast as you can pull the trigger, unless it’s fully-automatic, which would basically make it a blow-back AEG. GBB (Gas Blow-Back) is basically a Co2 powered blow-back airsoft gun. EGG (Electric Blow-Back) is a Electric powered blow-back (although electric powered blow-backs are pretty rare, and usually have horrible FPS and accuracy. So, chances are that you’ll never really hear the term “EGG”). The down side of a blow-back airsoft gun, while it’s semi or fully-automatic, it costs much more money than a Co2 or AEG, plus Co2’s and AEG’s already are semi/fully-auto. And, since the slide comes back, it drains batteries and Co2 cartridges much faster than normal. So really, blow-backs just look cool.

Another term you might hear in airsoft is “CQB”. All that stands for is “Close Quarter Battle”. Basically, all that means if a gun is good for CQB, is that it’s good for close-up fighting (usually 20 feet or under). Another way you might hear CQB is a type of game mode. It’s the same thing, any shooting taking place when your target is 20 feet or closer; most of the time CQB is indoors, just because indoors are usually smaller spaces, but it can also be outdoors. Lower FPS guns are best for Close Quarter Battle, because higher FPS guns hurt to much at short range.

FPS (Feet Per Second) is a measurement used to describe how fast the BB will be traveling as it leaves the barrel. For example, if a airsoft gun has a label “375 FPS” it means when the BB exits the barrel of the gun, it will be traveling 375 feet per second. This can be calculated to better understand it to 256 Miles Per Hour. So, 375 FPS = 256 MPH. This may seem fast, but keep in mind this is barrel velocity. As soon as the BB leaves the barrel it starts slowing down. It will lose at least 25% of its speed by the time the BB actually gets to your target. Also, manufactures try to look better by trying to get the highest FPS out of their gun; so what they do is take a .12 gram BB and calculate how fast a .12 gram BB (we’ll get to what the ‘grams’ matter in a moment) is traveling right as it leaves the barrel. The bottom line is, when you’re looking at a gun’s FPS, take at least 75 off of it right away. The manufacturer’s FPS is always higher than the real thing. The effect of FPS in the field is, the higher the FPS, the faster the BB will go, the more accurate it will be, and the longer it will travel.

Now for what “grams” mean. A gram is a measurement of weight. Obviously a .12 gram BB will be lighter than a .20 gram; a .20 gram will be lighter than a .25 gram, etc. The weight of standard airsoft BB’s are from .12-.45 gram weight. The heavier the weight, the more accurate. That’s why most players use .20 and up for almost every gun. The drawback of a heavier BB is that it will dramatically decrease the FPS. Usually the general rule of thumb is, the higher the FPS, the higher gram BB you should use. 200 FPS and under is best with .12 gram; 200-400 = .20 gram; etc. Also, guns with their hop-up wound to lose should use a higher gram BB (Hop-Up, I’ll explain next). Or if the gun is fully-automatic then you should use almost strictly .20 gram because anything less/more could jam. So, you should weigh out the accuracy to power ratio to find the best weight BB for your gun.

And now for hop-up. Almost every gun has it now. Hop-Up puts a back spin on your BB, making it more accurate, and a whole lot better distance. At close range, hop-up can be annoying because the BB will tend to go upwards and be less accurate. But at long ranges, hop-up is vital, adding distance and accuracy. The “tighter” a hop-up is wound, the less backspin will be put on the BB. The “looser” the hop-up is wound the more backspin will be put on a BB. Looser = more hop-up, and the the BB will tend to float up after 50 feet. Tighter = less hop-up, and the BB will sink after about 50 feet. (When a BB will either float or sink [50 feet, 60 feet, 70 feet, etc.] depends on the velocity of your gun) If you’re target is 30 feet away you probably want less hop-up, and if your target is 70 feet away you want more hop-up. It all depends on the situation. All-and-all, hop-up is good.

A alternative to hop-up is BAXS. BAXS is relatively new to airsofters, and has gotten a so-so reception because of airsofters’ loyalty and comfort level with hop-up. BAXS is in no way bad, though. With hop-up there’s two points of contact on the BB while it’s in the chamber, the top and bottom. With BAXS there’s three points of contact, two on the top and one on the bottom. Basically, BAXS gives you more control over the BB, so instead of floating up or down after 50/60/70 feet, the BB will continue going straight. BAXS is mostly on cheaper guns because they tend to have less FPS and it would be inaccurate to have hop-up. Although, it’s not totally uncommon to have BAXS on higher end airsoft guns.

Well, that’s the end of the “crash-course” on airsoft. Congratulations on reading the whole thing. If you have any further questions regarding airsoft, email me at (sirbuffalosushi@gmail.com) or leave a comment.

(This is a posted copy of Airsofter United’s page, “Crash Course“)

Tips to Reloading Airsoft Guns (How To Get More Shots Per Magazine)

You can’t have a gun without ammo. You can’t have a airsoft gun without BBs. It just won’t work. That’s why the biggest hassle in any gun fight is reloading. In this post I’m going to show you how to get more shots per clip, which may not sound like a big deal, but when a friendly airsoft fight turns into a war, a couple extra shots can kill/tag a couple guys on the opposing team. Think about that, less players shooting at you, that’s a pretty big deal. Find your type of gun below, and get your guns locked and completely loaded.

AEG’s (Automatic Electric Guns)

AEG’s usually have big reservoirs that are pushed into the chamber via spring that you crank by turning the wheel on the bottom of the magazine. Take a completely empty magazine, and fill up the reservoir just like you normally would. Now I know that you’re suppose to put the magazine into the gun and then crank the wheel, but this time crank the wheel on the bottom of your magazine just until the BBs reach the top of the chamber. Then open up the reservoir again and there should be room for at least five more BBs if not more. Fill the space up, and then insert the fully loaded magazine into your gun and then crank the wheel all the way taught. This has now given you a average of 10 more BBs in your magazine.

Spring Pistols, Shotguns, and Sniper Rifles

Unfortunately, there’s not much extra room in pistols/shotguns/sniper-rifles magazines for extra BBs due to their slim, tidy design. However, you can add just one more shot. How you do it is, take a empty magazine from your gun. Then load it with just one BB. Now insert the magazine with the one BB in it into your gun. Now simply cock your gun just like you would to get one in the chamber. Then take the magazine back out and it should be empty. Now fill the magazine up just like you normally would and insert it into the gun. The single BB you loaded earlier is now in the chamber, giving you a extra shot. Just be careful to keep the gun on safety until you’re ready to fire because as soon as you pull the trigger, it’s loaded and will fire.

Gravity Fed Hopper Guns

Gravity fed hoppers are the most simple design out there, making it the hardest to manipulate. Basically, BBs are stored above the chamber, usually in a scope or a compartment. To juice some extra rounds out of these you’ve got to get creative. What you need to do is take a piece of construction paper and roll it into a giant straw thing and tape it so it wont unroll, make it just small enough to fit into the hole where you pour BBs into to fill up the scope/compartment. Shove it into the hole about a half inch in and tape it into place so it wont fall off. Now fill it up with BBs so it fills the compartment and the funnel you made up to the top. It might look ridicules, but it gives you a average of 50+ extra BBs. This is to give you a idea of what it would look like if you cut your gun right down the middle with your funnel inserted:

Spring Rifles

All spring rifles have different magazines, which makes explaining this part hard. There’s some guns were you have no room to “top off” (I’ll show you how to top off in a moment), and for those guns (a example is the Mossberg M590 shotgun from Soft-Air USA), the only thing you could do to get as much ammo as possible is to “get one in the chamber”. Scroll up to “Spring Pistols, Shotguns, and Sniper Rifles” to learn how to get one in the chamber, it’s the exact same concept. But some rifles (the Stinger R34 from Crosman, for example) has a little more room to work with. To give you a idea of what kinds of magazines can top off, take a look at the picture below. You need one like that, with the outward notch:
The notch usually isn’t that dramatic, but the bigger it is, the more ammo it’ll hold. On magazines like this you usually pull a spring down on the front of the magazine and you usually lock it into place some how, then you either pour the BBs in from the notch, or if you have a reservoir that you shake to make the BBs fall in from the reservoir.  As seen below, the BBs fall into a sort of chamber in the magazine. The BBs don’t take up that whole chamber, the notch up on top is empty, so you can just manually drop a couple BBs on top of the others. A idea of what you’re seeing below is the “before” is a normally loaded magazine. The “after” is a normally loaded magazine with three extra BBs on top (the extra BBs are shown in red):

Just make sure to keep the magazine up right while you insert it into your gun becuase the BBs on top are loose and could fall.

That’s about all the different ways you can extend your BB count. While these methods do take longer to load than just a regular load, you never know, maybe those few extra BBs might save your hide and keep you in the game.

Mossberg M590 Airsoft Gun Review

The Mossberg M590 is a very versatile, powerful, light weight, combat shot gun. Soft-Air USA  took all these key features and turned it into a purebred airsoft shotgun.

The Mossberg M590 airsoft gun comes in three different styles: Full Stock, Collapsible Stock, and Pistol Grip (seen above). It’s great to have that kind of options, and every style fits each person differently. For example, if you’re a smaller kid and still like the stock, I’d recommend the collapsible stock. If you’re looking to use for CQB (Close Quarter Battle), I’d probably buy the pistol grip version. And finally, if you were looking for a true combat shotgun to own the battlefield with and hold nothing back, I’d purchase the full stock. There’s just so many different scenarios, so just think about which one fits you best and give that a try.

The Mossberg M590 is a true regulator. It shoots 355 FPS, and is pretty accurate (within five shots you can hit a squirrel from over 100 feet. I don’t recommend shooting it at any animal though, squirrels or otherwise). Obviously the pistol grip version might be less accurate though, due to it’s small format, just keep that in mind. As for different weights of BBs to use, I recommend .25 gram if you want a accurate shot, although .12 and .20 gram work fine if your goal is just to go all kamikaze on the other team. But if you’re looking to target shoot or be more conservative and accurate in a fight, I’d stick with .25 gram.

One of the reasons that the Mossberg M590 is so accurate is because it boasts the BAXS system. The BAXS system is a cousin of hop-up, and claims to be more accurate. Basically with BAXS, the BB doesn’t float/sink like hop-up does. In the case of the Mossberg M590, the BAXS system works like magic. Also, the BAXS is adjustable, to give the BB less/more backspin.

There are also two tricks with the Mossberg M590 that you can do. Just as a warning, though, these are called “tricks” for a reason, the Mossberg M590 isn’t suppose to be able to do this, so I’m not responsible for any damage to your gun by you trying this. The first trick is to hold down the trigger and never let it up and pump as fast as you can. That will make it virtually fully automatic. The second trick is to hold the gun so the barrel is pointing up and pump 3-5 times. Then when you shoot, it’ll shoot how ever many BBs you’ve pumped simultaneously, like buck shot. Just make sure to keep the barrel at no less than a 45 degree angle, otherwise the BBs will role out the muzzle. Like I’ve said, those are just a couple tricks you can do with the Mossberg M590 shotgun, they’re not actual features.

The magazine is the only weak-link in the Mossberg M590. It only holds 12 rounds, which might seem like a lot but at the rate you can pump and shoot, you’re out in no time. Most rifles hold 20+ rounds, so the 12 rounds is defiantly a down side. But, to make up for the 12 rounds, there’s a nice big reservoir that holds 180+ rounds. The thing about the reservoir is you pull the magazine spring  back past a hole that BBs fall in from and fill the chamber, just like any airsoft reservoir. The only thing about this one is that most springs can be pulled back and locked into place via notch, letting you be able to shake the magazine and get BBs into the chamber. This one however you must manually keep the spring back, because there’s no notch.

When you’re shooting, and think you’ve run out of ammo, you have to hold the gun upside-down and pump for the last two or three shots. You have to do this because the magazine spring doesn’t push the last few BBs up far enough, and if you were to just take the magazine straight out, a couple BBs would fall out. This isn’t a huge deal, just remember to pump the last couple shots in upside-down.

To conclude, the Mossberg M590 is a fast shooting, accurate shotgun. Great for both target shooting and a good backyard airsoft fight. While the magazine isn’t perfect, the power and versatility more than makes up. And it comes in many different styles, so make you get the right one to fit your needs. I definitely recommend this gun for the 20-$50 it costs (depending what style you get and where you get it from).

Specs:
Feet Per Second: 355
Accuracy: Can hit a person from over 100 feet
Power: Spring (you must cock it back before each shot)
Caliber: 6mm
Recommended BB Weight: .25 grams
Magazine Capacity: 12 BBs (with a 180 round reservoir)
Manufacture: Soft-Air USA

Video Review: