Stinger P311 Airsoft Gun Review

The Stinger P311 airsoft gun is a look-alike of the famous Colt 1911; from the block iron sights, to the simple look of the gun. At only $10-$20 (depending on where you buy it), this pistol also packs a punch.

One of the cool features of the Stinger P311 is the hammer. Most airsoft guns don’t have hammers, but lately Crosman (the maker of this gun) has been incorporating them into their pistols, adding to the realism. When you pull the slide back the hammer gets cocked back also, just like a real gun. You can manually pull back the hammer, too, and it’ll just snap back in place when you pull the trigger; although it won’t fire if you do that, since you have to pull the slide back to get it loaded. So, really, the whole point of the hammer is just decoration.

This pistol also packs a punch, for what it’s worth. It shoots 325 FPS, which is just about as high as it goes with spring pistols (without modifying it, that is).

A problem, though, with the Stinger P311 is the hop-up is nonadjustable, which means you’re stuck with however tight it was wound in the factory. Basically, at ranges over 30 feet, the Stinger P311 tends to shoot straight for about 20 feet, then take a dramatic turn either go left/right/up/down. You can’t really count this as a “con”, though, because almost every pistol is going to have the same problem, more or less. A solution to this problem is to shoot .20 gram BBs; they’re heavier than the regular .12 gram, so they tend to curve less. In really bad cases of curving BBs, you could even use .25 gram.

Another flaw is that it’s big, which would be a problem if you wanted to stick it in your pocket or something. But, this is another non issue, because you can get a holster for under $10. Besides, in the world of spring pistols, in order to have high FPS, it has to be a big gun.

For it’s price, the Stinger P311 has very nice workings. The slide pulls back quickly and cleanly, which results in shorter time between shots. The magazine also ejects out very quickly. With some airsoft pistols you have to push the magazine release while shaking the gun to get the magazine to fall out. The Stinger P311’s magazine springs out, which also makes for quick reload times. The flaws in the magazine are that is has no reserve, which means you might want to buy extra clips, due to not being able to refill from the magazine itself. Also, if you can’t do tactical reloads, because (if you take out the magazine while it still has BBs left in it) a couple BBs will fall out, all over the ground.

And, another part to think about is the safety. It’s located on the left side, just above the grip. It’s shaped like a triangle, and it pivots on one of the points. You flip it up and down to turn on and off the safety. Because of its weird design, not many people are used to it, so it doesn’t feel natural to turn off/on the safety. Some people like the design, and some people hate it, it’s up to your personal preference.

To conclude, the Stinger P311 is a great sidearm for both target shooting and airsoft matches. It boasts a high FPS, but is best used at ranges under 30-40 feet. Also, think about buying a holster and some heavier ammo along with this gun. Factoring in the price, performance, and overall utility of the Stinger P311, it’s one of my favorite spring pistols to use.

Specs:
Feet Per Second: 325
Accuracy: Very accurate at 10-30 feet
Power: Spring (you must cock it back before each shot)
Caliber: 6mm
Recommended BB Weight: .20 grams
Magazine Capacity: 12 BBs
Manufacture: Crosman

Video Review:

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Crash-Course in Airsoft (The Basics of Airsoft)

Airsoft is as close to real combat you can get, without putting your life in peril. Airsoft is usually a team sport, and people of all ages everywhere are getting in on the action. The whole point is: take out the enemy and don’t get shot doing it. The rules are different everywhere, and depending on how many people are playing, the rules can vary from all out war, to if you get hit you must sit out for the rest of the round until a team has won, to capture the flag, to just friendly backyard skirmishes. There’s almost infinite ways to play, and there’s not a right or a wrong way.

The most important and most basic thing you need for airsofting is a airsoft gun. Basically how a airsoft gun works is, in some fashion, a spring is compressed along with a little pocket of air, which propels a BB (BBs are small plastic spheres that airsoft guns shoot. They usually have a diameter of 6mm, so they’re pretty small).  There’s several different types of guns, here’s a little list of the three different types:

AEG (Automatic Electric Gun)
– This is battery powered. You must charge a 7-12 (sometimes greater) volt battery and hook it up to the gun to give it power. As far as batteries go, there’s two measurements that come into play: Volts – volts measure how powerful the battery is, the more volts, the faster a gun will shoot, and also the higher rate of fire and velocity there will be (even a small upgrade in battery can dramatically improve a gun). The only down side is that if you have to strong of a battery, it might overwhelm the gun and break it. The second measurement is mAh – this is how much power a battery can store. For example, a 1200 mAh battery can last a (let’s say) 10 hour battle; a 1800 mAh battery can last a 14 hour battle. That’s just some basic examples of different battery terminology.

The upside of an AEG is that it is usually fully automatic, which means with a single pull of the trigger multiple BB’s can be fired. AEG’s are the most popular type of airsoft gun for fights because of this. Out shooting the enemy is the biggest advantage you can have in any kind of gun fight. AEG’s usually have relatively good FPS (feet per second; I’ll talk about FPS later) which is also a benefit.

Spring/Bolt Action – Spring/Bolt Action powered means you must cock something back before each shot. On pistols you usually cock the slide back, rifles usually have a charging handle on the top or on the side, and revolvers you must cock the hammer back. Either way, what it does is compress a spring and capture air that will then help propel the BB. This type of gun is the most common type because of its simplicity, cheapness, and because it will fire under extreme heat/coldness where the batteries inside AEG’s or the CO2 inside Gas Powered guns might fail in extreme weather. You can even get spring guns wet and muddy and they still will fire (although, you should clean and dry them if they get wet because the springs will rust). But, as stated before, spring powered guns require you cock back the slide/cocking mechanism which make them slow to shoot, so they just can’t compete with AEG’s and Gas Powered guns.

Bolt action is the same thing as spring powered; basically you compress a spring to shoot the BB, it’s just in a different form. With bolt action, you take a handle and rack it back then forward again to compress the spring and get a BB in the chamber, exactly as you would with real guns (except with real bullets, also). But bolt action can compress stronger springs which results in higher FPS. This is why bolt action is almost exclusively used on sniper rifles. If you’re confused, the main difference is that with bolt action you pull a big bolt back, and with spring action you simply rack a charging handle. But, bolt can produce higher FPS than spring.

CO2/Green Gas – This type of gun requires a CO2/Green Gas power outlet to work. All you have to do is screw in your power outlet and you’re ready to shoot. With CO2 and Green Gas powered guns the emphasis is on power.

An example of CO2 power outlets

Since CO2/Green Gas is doing the work instead of springs (AEG’s and Spring/Bolt Action require springs to work), the BB can be shot at much higher velocities (C02 and Green Gas still use springs, they’re just not so vital). And like AEG’s, you don’t have to cock back each time which means you can fire as fast as you can pull the trigger. Usually Co2/Green Gas are only semi-automatic which means with every pull of the trigger one shot is fired, but there are a handful of fully-automatic Co2/Green Gas out there. Fully-automatic means with one pull of the trigger, multiple BBs can be fired.

*

Now for some terms you hear a lot in airsoft:

The difference between full-automatic and semi-automatic – if you didn’t understand fully/semi-automatic guns from the descriptions I gave above, I’ll explain it further. Semi-automatic means that every time you pull the trigger, one bullet/BB will shoot out. Fully-automatic means that if you pull the trigger, multiple bullets/BBs can be fired. As long as you hold down the trigger with fully-automatic, a steady stream of BBs will be shooting out. To give you a idea of which type of gun usually does what (this is just a general overlook, there can be exceptions):

AEG’s – usually have both fully and semi-automatic features
Spring/Bolt Action – neither; you must manually pull some sort of charging lever back before each shot
Co2/Green Gas – Usually semi-automatic only. Although, there are a couple of fully-automatic models out there

Now, for those who are completely new to airsoft or any type of gun, what the “safety” feature is. Every gun has safety, every single type and model; it is both unsafe and illegal to have a firearm without a working safety. A safety locks the trigger into place, so that a gun won’t go off by bumping into things. When a working safety is on, it is impossible to discharge the gun. It’s just that simple. Every airsofter (and firearm owner, for that matter) must always have their gun on safety when not in use.

ROF (Rate of Fire) is how many BB’s a gun, usually a AEG, will fire per minuet. Pretty simple. So if a gun had a ROF of 800, that means, that it will fire 800 BBs in one minuet.

There’s also a couple different types of “Blow-back” airsoft guns. Blow-back just means that when you fire the gun, the slide will blow back, just like a real gun. Blow-back airsoft guns can be Co2 or Electric (AEG). The benefits to a blow-back gun is that it looks realistic, and it chambers a BB each shot, so that it shoots as fast as you can pull the trigger, unless it’s fully-automatic, which would basically make it a blow-back AEG. GBB (Gas Blow-Back) is basically a Co2 powered blow-back airsoft gun. EGG (Electric Blow-Back) is a Electric powered blow-back (although electric powered blow-backs are pretty rare, and usually have horrible FPS and accuracy. So, chances are that you’ll never really hear the term “EGG”). The down side of a blow-back airsoft gun, while it’s semi or fully-automatic, it costs much more money than a Co2 or AEG, plus Co2’s and AEG’s already are semi/fully-auto. And, since the slide comes back, it drains batteries and Co2 cartridges much faster than normal. So really, blow-backs just look cool.

Another term you might hear in airsoft is “CQB”. All that stands for is “Close Quarter Battle”. Basically, all that means if a gun is good for CQB, is that it’s good for close-up fighting (usually 20 feet or under). Another way you might hear CQB is a type of game mode. It’s the same thing, any shooting taking place when your target is 20 feet or closer; most of the time CQB is indoors, just because indoors are usually smaller spaces, but it can also be outdoors. Lower FPS guns are best for Close Quarter Battle, because higher FPS guns hurt to much at short range.

FPS (Feet Per Second) is a measurement used to describe how fast the BB will be traveling as it leaves the barrel. For example, if a airsoft gun has a label “375 FPS” it means when the BB exits the barrel of the gun, it will be traveling 375 feet per second. This can be calculated to better understand it to 256 Miles Per Hour. So, 375 FPS = 256 MPH. This may seem fast, but keep in mind this is barrel velocity. As soon as the BB leaves the barrel it starts slowing down. It will lose at least 25% of its speed by the time the BB actually gets to your target. Also, manufactures try to look better by trying to get the highest FPS out of their gun; so what they do is take a .12 gram BB and calculate how fast a .12 gram BB (we’ll get to what the ‘grams’ matter in a moment) is traveling right as it leaves the barrel. The bottom line is, when you’re looking at a gun’s FPS, take at least 75 off of it right away. The manufacturer’s FPS is always higher than the real thing. The effect of FPS in the field is, the higher the FPS, the faster the BB will go, the more accurate it will be, and the longer it will travel.

Now for what “grams” mean. A gram is a measurement of weight. Obviously a .12 gram BB will be lighter than a .20 gram; a .20 gram will be lighter than a .25 gram, etc. The weight of standard airsoft BB’s are from .12-.45 gram weight. The heavier the weight, the more accurate. That’s why most players use .20 and up for almost every gun. The drawback of a heavier BB is that it will dramatically decrease the FPS. Usually the general rule of thumb is, the higher the FPS, the higher gram BB you should use. 200 FPS and under is best with .12 gram; 200-400 = .20 gram; etc. Also, guns with their hop-up wound to lose should use a higher gram BB (Hop-Up, I’ll explain next). Or if the gun is fully-automatic then you should use almost strictly .20 gram because anything less/more could jam. So, you should weigh out the accuracy to power ratio to find the best weight BB for your gun.

And now for hop-up. Almost every gun has it now. Hop-Up puts a back spin on your BB, making it more accurate, and a whole lot better distance. At close range, hop-up can be annoying because the BB will tend to go upwards and be less accurate. But at long ranges, hop-up is vital, adding distance and accuracy. The “tighter” a hop-up is wound, the less backspin will be put on the BB. The “looser” the hop-up is wound the more backspin will be put on a BB. Looser = more hop-up, and the the BB will tend to float up after 50 feet. Tighter = less hop-up, and the BB will sink after about 50 feet. (When a BB will either float or sink [50 feet, 60 feet, 70 feet, etc.] depends on the velocity of your gun) If you’re target is 30 feet away you probably want less hop-up, and if your target is 70 feet away you want more hop-up. It all depends on the situation. All-and-all, hop-up is good.

A alternative to hop-up is BAXS. BAXS is relatively new to airsofters, and has gotten a so-so reception because of airsofters’ loyalty and comfort level with hop-up. BAXS is in no way bad, though. With hop-up there’s two points of contact on the BB while it’s in the chamber, the top and bottom. With BAXS there’s three points of contact, two on the top and one on the bottom. Basically, BAXS gives you more control over the BB, so instead of floating up or down after 50/60/70 feet, the BB will continue going straight. BAXS is mostly on cheaper guns because they tend to have less FPS and it would be inaccurate to have hop-up. Although, it’s not totally uncommon to have BAXS on higher end airsoft guns.

Well, that’s the end of the “crash-course” on airsoft. Congratulations on reading the whole thing. If you have any further questions regarding airsoft, email me at (sirbuffalosushi@gmail.com) or leave a comment.

(This is a posted copy of Airsofter United’s page, “Crash Course“)

Tips to Reloading Airsoft Guns (How To Get More Shots Per Magazine)

You can’t have a gun without ammo. You can’t have a airsoft gun without BBs. It just won’t work. That’s why the biggest hassle in any gun fight is reloading. In this post I’m going to show you how to get more shots per clip, which may not sound like a big deal, but when a friendly airsoft fight turns into a war, a couple extra shots can kill/tag a couple guys on the opposing team. Think about that, less players shooting at you, that’s a pretty big deal. Find your type of gun below, and get your guns locked and completely loaded.

AEG’s (Automatic Electric Guns)

AEG’s usually have big reservoirs that are pushed into the chamber via spring that you crank by turning the wheel on the bottom of the magazine. Take a completely empty magazine, and fill up the reservoir just like you normally would. Now I know that you’re suppose to put the magazine into the gun and then crank the wheel, but this time crank the wheel on the bottom of your magazine just until the BBs reach the top of the chamber. Then open up the reservoir again and there should be room for at least five more BBs if not more. Fill the space up, and then insert the fully loaded magazine into your gun and then crank the wheel all the way taught. This has now given you a average of 10 more BBs in your magazine.

Spring Pistols, Shotguns, and Sniper Rifles

Unfortunately, there’s not much extra room in pistols/shotguns/sniper-rifles magazines for extra BBs due to their slim, tidy design. However, you can add just one more shot. How you do it is, take a empty magazine from your gun. Then load it with just one BB. Now insert the magazine with the one BB in it into your gun. Now simply cock your gun just like you would to get one in the chamber. Then take the magazine back out and it should be empty. Now fill the magazine up just like you normally would and insert it into the gun. The single BB you loaded earlier is now in the chamber, giving you a extra shot. Just be careful to keep the gun on safety until you’re ready to fire because as soon as you pull the trigger, it’s loaded and will fire.

Gravity Fed Hopper Guns

Gravity fed hoppers are the most simple design out there, making it the hardest to manipulate. Basically, BBs are stored above the chamber, usually in a scope or a compartment. To juice some extra rounds out of these you’ve got to get creative. What you need to do is take a piece of construction paper and roll it into a giant straw thing and tape it so it wont unroll, make it just small enough to fit into the hole where you pour BBs into to fill up the scope/compartment. Shove it into the hole about a half inch in and tape it into place so it wont fall off. Now fill it up with BBs so it fills the compartment and the funnel you made up to the top. It might look ridicules, but it gives you a average of 50+ extra BBs. This is to give you a idea of what it would look like if you cut your gun right down the middle with your funnel inserted:

Spring Rifles

All spring rifles have different magazines, which makes explaining this part hard. There’s some guns were you have no room to “top off” (I’ll show you how to top off in a moment), and for those guns (a example is the Mossberg M590 shotgun from Soft-Air USA), the only thing you could do to get as much ammo as possible is to “get one in the chamber”. Scroll up to “Spring Pistols, Shotguns, and Sniper Rifles” to learn how to get one in the chamber, it’s the exact same concept. But some rifles (the Stinger R34 from Crosman, for example) has a little more room to work with. To give you a idea of what kinds of magazines can top off, take a look at the picture below. You need one like that, with the outward notch:
The notch usually isn’t that dramatic, but the bigger it is, the more ammo it’ll hold. On magazines like this you usually pull a spring down on the front of the magazine and you usually lock it into place some how, then you either pour the BBs in from the notch, or if you have a reservoir that you shake to make the BBs fall in from the reservoir.  As seen below, the BBs fall into a sort of chamber in the magazine. The BBs don’t take up that whole chamber, the notch up on top is empty, so you can just manually drop a couple BBs on top of the others. A idea of what you’re seeing below is the “before” is a normally loaded magazine. The “after” is a normally loaded magazine with three extra BBs on top (the extra BBs are shown in red):

Just make sure to keep the magazine up right while you insert it into your gun becuase the BBs on top are loose and could fall.

That’s about all the different ways you can extend your BB count. While these methods do take longer to load than just a regular load, you never know, maybe those few extra BBs might save your hide and keep you in the game.

Stinger P9 Airsoft Gun Review

The Stinger P9 is a very useful and good-looking airsoft pistol. The Stinger P9 is truly one of a kind with it’s mind-blowing accuracy, durability, FPS, and the price tag of only $20!

It’s made fully of plastic, with the exception of some springs, but I assure you, it’s very well made.  My personal one has been dropped multiple times in the heat of battle, and still runs flawlessly. From extended abuse, the weight located directly behind the handle may come off, but without any glue or anything, you can snap it right back into place. The Stinger P9 also might get dirty on the inside after a month or two of warfare. It’s very simple to take it apart. Just push out one of the pins, and the slide will come right off.

The Stinger P9 is a compact little gun with a good punch. At 275 FPS (Feet Per Second), it’s great. Though, FPS comes at a cost. The hop-up is very loose, even brand new, straight fresh out of the package. The hop-up being very loose will cause your BB to shoot extreme up. That’s why I highly recommend using high-grade .25 gram BB’s only for this gun. Anything less won’t hurt the gun, but it will be horribly inaccurate. But, even with .25 gram BB’s, it still shoots somewhat high, but this is just one of those down sides that you just have to live with. Just keep the nose down, and it’ll work fine. Just a side note, also, this gun is extremely reliable. I’ve never seen it jam, misfire, or any other malfunction you can think of.

Most airsoft pistols are meant for a effective range of around 20-30 feet. But, the Stinger P9 can hit a person from over 50 feet away (using .25 gram BBs)! This is a great gun for all types of players, new or advanced, sniper of heavy gunner, infantry of scout, for target practice or skirmishes, this gun is like the utility tool of airsoft, it does it all.

What I really love about the Stinger P9 is it’s magazines. They have a 80 round reservoir, which is a huge advantage in airsoft matches. They’re super cheap, too, averaging around $6. If you buy a simple pistol magazine holder, and four extra magazines, you can be unstoppable.

So, if you’re looking for a inexpensive, reliable, accurate, powerful airsoft pistol, this could be your golden ticket. Like I said; the utility tool of airsoft. It can fit pretty much anyone’s needs. And it’s light and compact enough to wear in a leg holster if you needed. Between it’s power and extreme accuracy, it’s personally my favorite spring pistol, and I carry it as a sidearm to all my airsoft matches.

Specs:
Feet Per Second: 275
Accuracy: Insanely Good for a pistol
Power: Spring (you must pull back the slide before each shot)
Caliber: 6mm
Recommended BB Weight: .25 grams
Magazine Capacity: 12 BBs (with a 80 round reservoir)
Manufacture: Crosman

937 UHC Revolver Airsoft Gun Review

At first glace, the 937 airsoft revolver from UHC looks pretty nice. Usually airsoft handguns are pistols, so a revolver’s a nice change from the same old spring pistols everyone’s used to.

One of the obvious down sides is that the 937 Revolver only holds 6 rounds of ammo. A even bigger down side is that they’re held in shells, just like a real revolver, and you must manually push a BB into little holes on the rear of the shell and then insert the shell into the gun. That’s a lot of work for only 6 rounds of ammo in both target shooting and airsoft wars. And, even if you do buy extra shells, it’s time consuming to take all six of the used shells out and then all six of the new ones back in. And still another flaw with the shells, they’re very lose, and if you don’t keep the gun pointed straight down while you reload, all of shells will fall out. I recommend not even bothering with buying extra shells and just keep six shells in the gun and push the BB into the shell while it’s still in the gun. If you’re confused, let me explain what I mean. There’s a little rubber hole in the back of each shell. And you need to push a BB into that rubber hole to get it loaded. Now, what I’m saying is, it’s best if you leave the empty shells in the gun, and just push in the BB’s right there.

Long story short, the shells are just a nightmare. But once you do get the gun loaded, how does it shoot? Not to well. Even though the 937 Revolver claims to have “hop-up” technology, it’s far-fetched. With .20 gram ammo, it fires straight, but takes a dramatic nosedive after about 10 feet. .12 gram ammo isn’t much better, and it doesn’t even fly straight, so you probably have a better chance with .20 gram.

The effective range for a airsoft handgun anyway is around 20 feet, and if you’re just looking for that then you’ll probably be happy with the 937 Revolver, but if you’re looking for anything over that then probably skip this gun. Bottom line; does well for close quarters or indoors, does not do well for ranges over 20 feet or outdoor use.

Even though the 937 UHC Revolver can’t perform too well at anything over 10-20 feet, it is well built. For the most part it’s metal, but a couple parts are made of plastic. The hammer is well built, too. As for the shells, they’re made from plastic and some rubber, but they do the job.

But, even through all these down sides, the 937 Revolver still could make a decent sidearm if you wanted something different. For example, if you already have a AEG or well built spring powered main weapon, and don’t have a lot of cash to spend on a sidearm,  this could fit the bill. Although only having 6 rounds of ammo, and less than perfect accuracy, the 937 Revolver can shoot at a very fast rate. It’s single-action, which means you must pull back the hammer before each shot, but you can pull and shoot faster than you’d think. You can have all 6 rounds down field in under 4 seconds if you get a feel for the gun. Accuracy through volume, that’s what this gun’s all about.

Another benefit of the revolver platform is that you can operate it with only one hand, where as, with a pistol, you need to use both hands to cock it back and fire. Which means if you got two of them that you could duel-wield them!

It also feels really good to hold. It looks totally realistic (except for the orange tip), and is overall solid. It has grooves on the handle that fit your hand perfectly, so it wouldn’t hurt your hands gripping it in a long fight.

One last thing to consider is the size of the revolver you want. This review is on the 937 revolver (which is 4in long), but UHC also makes them in 2.5″, 6″ and 8″ barrel lengths. The longer the barrel is the more accurate it is, and the more powerful it is in terms of FPS. Although, the longer length can be a burden when drawing or in CQB. So just keep in mind that you have the option to go with a bigger/smaller barrel length.

So, don’t let the down sides scare you, this is a okay gun with a little training and patience. You could even  buy two of them so you can go akimbo. Although I would not recommend this for target shooting, it can put up a decent fight in a airsoft war, despite only having 6 shots. At $25 this really isn’t too bad of a gun, it’s not one of the elite, but it’s okay. So, if you want something different to liven up your battlefield, and don’t feel like shelling out big bucks, and can appreciate a handgun for a handgun, and don’t expect miracles from it, it can do well.

Specs:
Feet Per Second: 240
Accuracy: So-So, can hit a person from 20 feet
Power: Spring (you must pull back the hammer before each shot)
Caliber: 6mm
Recommended BB Weight: .20 grams
Magazine Capacity: 6 BBs
Manufacture: UHC

Colt 1911 Airsoft Gun Review

The first thing you will notice about the Colt 1911 airsoft pistol is the resemblance to the real thing. From the beaver-tail, to the long 6 inch barrel, this gun’s as close as you can get to the real 1911.

It’s also cheap. Only $14! Though, spare clips will cost you around $10 for two, which is decent, considering to fact that their is no reservoir and that in a airsoft fight you don’t want to be having to be manually pushing in 12 BB’s under heavy fire and pressure. So, bottom line, spare clips are worth their weight in gold.

The Colt 1911 airsoft pistol also comes with a laser, seen in the illustration above. While the laser isn’t the greatest out in the field or at long ranges, it will work well for indoor target shooting. On that note, you do have to be gentle with the laser, as the wiring is weak. It’s probably best to de-attach the laser if you are shooting outdoors or are having a airsoft match. If the wire does fray, which it commonly will, you can repair it with some simple electrical tape.

The slide is also hard to cock. Not a big deal for target shooting, but can be a burden when trying to lay down fire while in the field; but you should keep in mind that this is a cheap pistol, and is best used as a sidearm/secondary weapon.

Accuracy isn’t the best with the Colt 1911 airsoft pistol. While the BB will fly in a straight line, it drops dramatically after 20 feet with .20 gram ammo. .12 gram ammo fixes this problem somewhat, however, it’s best if you stick with .20 because even though it will drop, .12 is very unpredictable. So, you should weigh out the odds; a BB that will fly straight but drop, or a BB that will fly very far but will be inaccurate. It’s really up to you.

To wrap up, The Colt 1911 airsoft pistol is a good, cheap, durable sidearm that has its drawbacks but can payoff.  While some parts like the laser are touch-and-go, it’s a good idea to invest in other things, like some extra clips.  Overall, the Colt 1911 airsoft pistol is a good gun. Good for target shooting, but a little less great in a airsoft fight, though it can make a good sidearm.

Specs:
Feet Per Second: 210
Accuracy: You can hit a person from 30 feet
Power: Spring (you must pull back the slide before each shot)
Caliber: 6mm
Recommended BB weight: .20 gram
Magazine Capacity: 12 BBs
Manufacture: Colt